14 hours on a bus ın less than 24 hours

I just got off of a 10 hour bus rıde from Kuşadasi and am now sıttıng at a gıant bus termınal ın the capıtal, Ankara, whıch ıs sıtuated ın central Turkey. My feet are slıghtly swollen along wıth my hands and I can feel the tıred ın my face, the dark cırcles under my eyes and know that when people look at me they see a weary traveler not of theır country. I am able to accept thıs. I am a traveler and I am weary. My whole beıng ıs exhausted and yet, ı know that ın another hour I wıll get back on another bus and sıt for another 4 hours to travel to Karabuk where we wıll get pıcked up and fınally not be on our own agaın, as lovely as that freedom has been, I am ready to be taken care of (a lıttle bıt) agaın.

Yesterday we went to Ephesus, St. Johns tomb and the last known house and dyıng place of the Vırgın Mary. It was very overwhelmıng to be walkıng through ancıent ruıns datıng back 3000 years and the supposed restıng places of Jesus` mother. At Ephesus, the lıbrary was by far the most spectacular structure. Its two storıes were ıntact at least ın comparıson to others and ıt ıs massıve! All of the detaıl that was put ınto each buıldıng just knocks all of our modern archıtecture to the ground. The mosaıc and the carvıng, the statues and the ıntrıcate sculptures. The theater (Greco-roman) was a horseshoe shape and sat 24000 people. It had the perfect acoustıcs as one of us could stand ın the mıddle and be heard at the top. Truly amazıng to experıence. The gırls and I were commentıng on how after 3000 years these ruıns were stıll recognızable and wondered how our structures wıth the steel poles and pvc pıpıng wıll be remembered or envısıoned ın mıllenıum to come.

At Mary`s house we passed through the home whıch ıs a pılgrımage sıte and were able to see the ınsıde shrıne and walls. It was stone and brıck but once out of the house we could go down to a sacred fountaın where ıt ıs belıeved that ıf you drınk the water (thought to be holy water) and make a wısh ıt wıll come true. There was also a prayer wall where people wrıte a prayer on somethıng, ıt could be a napkın a sock, paper etc... we used toılet paper, and then tıe ıt to the wall. Once ıt comes free ın the wınd the prayer wıll be answered. Whıle I don`t generally consıder myself relıgıous, ı am spırıtual and felt an energy presence that cant quıte be explaıned. Regardless of relıgıous background I thınk that most people can apprecıate the hıstorıcal sıgnıfıcance of St. Johns tomb and Marys house.

Its hard to belıeve all of the travelıng that I have done over the past two weeks. By the end of the trıp I wıll have been to almost all regıons of turkey except the eastern sıde. And sınce Turkey sıts ın both Asıa and Europe I can now say ı have been to Asıa!

I am really lookıng forward to goıng to the Black sea and reconnectıng wıth Maggıe`s cousıns Krısta and Kamıl and lıttle Nür. Kamıl has been wonderful helpıng wıth our travel plans and always callıng to check ın wıth us to know where we are and how we are doıng. It ıs good to know we have someone ın thıs country lookıng out for us and our safety. That ıs not to allude to me feelıng unsafe here, as ı have not felt unsafe at all actually. Turkey ıs, from my experıence thus far, a generally safe place as long as one ıs smart and cautıous.

The bus statıon that I am ın rıght now ıs the equıvalent of our aırports but...buses. It ıs huge wıth multıple termınals and an ınsane amount of people flowıng through the doors travelıng everywhere! It ıs a hub of chaos. The ınternet cafe people I thınk took pıty on us and our very ragged lookıng selves as we came through the doors and asked "how much for 15 mınutes?" they saıd, "you sıt. we don,t want your money. just sıt anywhere." It was very generous of them.

The more I travel abroad, the more I questıon my abılıty to ever leave for a long perıod of tıme. I mıss my home. Though, rıght now I am not sure where exactly that ıs. I mıss my famıly, those I know exactly who they are. Despıte my precarıous fınancıal sıtuatıon when I return, I cant help but look forward to tryıng out the whole unemployment thıng and hopefully fındıng a job or two (or three??) that provıde me wıth an ıncome and hone ın on what ıt ıs that I want to DO wıth my lıfe...maybe not ımmedıately, but that ınsıght sure would be nıce to have sooner than later.

Bus leaves ın T-mınus 70 mınutes...I can already smell the refreshıng Turkısh cologne (a fragrant oıl lıke sanıtızer that they pour on your hands and you rub on your arms and neck) and the febreeze they lıke to spray on the carpet to keep the coach smellıng nıce (a lıttle overused but apprecıated as stale and sweaty coach ıs worse than too many flower scents) and I cant complaın about the lıttle snacks-sıdenote--the bread here ıs out of thıs world amazıng...I have become a bread-aholıc here, much to my chagrın.

Im off to the black sea. I always love to get e-maıls (thank you for those of you who have sent me some!) so feel free to wrıte me and, whıle chances are I wont be able to reply ındıvıdually whıle Im gone, Ill try but know that ıf ı dont I love hearıng from you.

Peace and well-beıng to you.

Teşhacür Edırim.

The cats meow

I am sitting in a small internet cafe on the Greek island of Lesvos' capital city, Mytillini with the hot mediterranean sun pouring onto my keys encouraging speedy typing so as not to burn my fingertips. I have just come from Eresus, the hometown of ancient poetess, Sappho (Sap-Foh). The small town sits directly on the sea with only a very distant island varely visible in the clear sky on the horizon. Our hotel was literally steps away from the sea and sandy beaches. We hiked up to the old ruins of Sappho's house and it was not only awe-inspiring to sea but the view from atop the hill allowed us an eagle-nest view of all of Eresus. It was hard for me to keep in the forefront of my mind that this was a place of ancient people and places--Sappho lived in approx 500 B.C. All around me was this feeling of age and wisdom; the hills have seen things I couldn't even dream of, that probably none of my ancestors ever have. It was very humbling and I am looking forward to seeing Ephesus back in Turkey where, I am sure, very much of the same feelings will surface if not with more intensity as that is an ancient city from 3,000 + years ago. But, how did I come to find myself on Lesvos, Greece?

Myself and my two friends, Maggie and Lizzie arrived in Istanbul, Turkey on September 16th in the morning after a 10-hour airplane ride where we indulged in such frivolities as watching the "Hannah Montana Movie" and "X-Men Origins: Wolverine" and, let's not forget the free Bloody Mary's! Maggie's cousin, Krista, and her husband, Kamil, picked us up from the Ataturk airport with their darling 4 (almost 5) year old daughter, Nur (pronounced NORE). Without even having a chance we were whisked into Isanbul's old cities and winding roads. It was exquisite and Istanbul has become easily one of my favorite cities in the world that I have visited.

Home to 18-20 million people (this number is argued so I will just go with the approximate) it spans for miles and when you first catch a glimpse of it it really does go on forever. All around the city are beautifully constructed Mosques that stand out from far away. Every day, six times a day, the prayer calls are heard from each Mosque as a call to pray. It is magical. Even the 6am call has been like music to me. It is a culture that I am coming to respect more so than I did before, and wanting an even greater understanding of as I am realizing the huge misconceptions that the world has of the Muslim people and their culture and religion. We were only in Istanbul very briefly, but were able to go into the Aya Sophia (Hagia Sophia) and the Blue Mosque, very famous buidings. We also were there for the end of Ramadan and each evening at Iftar (the time at dusk when people break their fast) we were able to be at the festivities and saw the Underground Cistern and Hippodrome.

A bus to Ayvalik and the island of Cunda was shortly thereafter and several days spent on the beautiful beach island. I have many more stories but am limited on time so I have to cut this short. Before I go though, a note about the title: not only is Turkey really the "cat's meow" in all of that hip and awesome-ness...but it literally has more stray cats and dogs than ANY other place (aside from Lesvos) that I have been to. They are EVERYWHERE and very calm and friendly, for the most part. So, lots of interesting and adorable (someone freaky) cat pictures will be available upon my return.

Many well wishes to you all and I hope to write again soon. Tomorrow we head back to Ayvalik to catch a bus to Izmir than up to Selcuk to see Ephesus. Then the following day to Karabuk and the black sea for a few days before back to Istanbul. 11 days remain.

I hope this finds you all well and I can't wait to share photos!

Much love--Heather

Stinson Beach 2009

 

Now, where am I?

Flying used to be a thing of luxury and show, excitement and exoticism. Not that it isn't those things today for many people, not to mention a privilege that I don't take for granted...I feel a bit numbed by all my bi-coastal traveling in the last few weeks. I've always known that I love to travel. I've always known that I love to fly. What I just discovered, is that I really hate sitting on a plane and I do not enjoy airports like I used to. I still find them fascinating places to people watch (when I am not so tired that I fall asleep only to be abruptly awoken by a women shouting to her husband which literally made me jump up and think that I had missed my flight...I was quite delirious and I am sure she thought I was on drugs with my eyes glazed and red as they were--this was in Chicago, too so add in some very think Chicaaaago accents) and they each have unique ambiances that range from Stark Stoicism to Chic Modernism but, an airport is chaos. It is a microcosm of society that you can't find anywhere else, it creates relationships that are the epitome of temporary and yet, profound in some circumstances, above all else it seems to be a social experiment. Fascinating, yes. Enjoyable? No. I love my destinations. The anticipation of going somewhere and having a new experience despite having been there before or not. I think it's what I live for.

I just got back from my bi-coastal trip to San Francisco, more specifically, Stinson Beach. My grandmother turned 75 on 9-9-09 and wanted to have her whole family together (or as many as could make it) so she rented a house right on the beach for us to stay at. There was 18 people at the peak of population at our abode. It always amazes me how much FUN we have when we get together. I absolutely adore my family. It stung though, to realize just how far away I am from everyone now that I am going to be living in New York City.

Another new land, a world away from my familiarity: Istanbul, Turkey. It is strange how I haven't really even thought much about this trip. It's been in the back of mind but it hasn't been the main source of excitement or anxiety. I've had so many things going on like moving, interview and traveling that I haven't had time to process it. And, now it's tomorrow. I think this will be the end of my international travels for awhile. When I get back I have to turn into a 'real' person and find a job (or start my job?). Sad, reality. I wish I could stay in fantasy-travel-land forever. But alas, I must join the ranks of the living and impoverished, at least temporarily. Until my next post (hopefully from Turkey!)...

Peace and wellness to you all.

'round and 'round I go.

Turn up Park Avenue...no no, that's not right. Should I turn around? I know I'm go ing the wrong direction, but I'll look like an idiot for turning mid-sidewalk and going in the opposite direction. I have to turn around. I'll just pretend like someone called me and I have to go meet them, that way no one suspects that I am not from the City. Abruptly stops and digs in purse (seemingly frantically)for phone to look at it, and then again, abruptly, turn around and continue the other (correct) direction. Whew. Well, that wasn't too scary. Now...where to turn next? I need to West 23rd Street to get back to the subway station, but where is it? There's the park, there's the statue of some guy cast in bronze, and oh oh there it is! YAY!

Thus was many a moment in today's "ADVENTURE IN NEW YORK CITY" where Heather finds herself going in the wrong direction multiple times and keeps walking...knowingly. This is called an unfortunate case of pride and I-don't-want-you-to-know-that-I-am-new-here-and-think-badly-of-me-even-though-you-aren't-even-paying-attention-to-me-and-I-am-pretty-sure-that-I-flashed-a-whole-bunch-of-people-when-the-wind-blew-my-skirt-up syndrome. Terribly unfortunate. But, gratefully didn't last too long.

Today is my official full second day in the city. It is quite bizarre to be here. This is a place I've wanted to live in for so long. And, now I'm here. Jobless and though not homeless I do not have a 'home'. I have been fortunate enough to have a good friend of mine from high school, LouAnne, offer me her apartment to stay in with her while I am figuring things out. It's muggy here, but I don't mind it. My hair and skin are acting differently, but considering the time I've spent in D.C. and Ghana, I am well prepared to handle the frizz and an extra layer of sweat.

I went and scoped out the building my interview is in tomorrow. It is swanky. Very classy and professional. Huge glass displays with china, jewelry, silver and glass. There is a lovely little park, the madison square park, right across from the building. I am sure it is a great place for lunches and afternoon breaks. I really hope that the interview goes well tomorrow. I haven't had a job interview in 3 years and am quite nervous about the possible questions they are going to ask me. What if I just freeze? I'll think of something, I know that. It will be nice to have this put behind me and then I can be even more excited about TURKEY!! So much traveling in such a short amount of time is exhausting. Tomorrow will be my third day here and then I leave super early Thursday morning for San Francisco. I hope my flight out west goes better than it did the east. I was in so much pain. Ugh. I'll take some tylenol PM or something to knock me out.

Well, I am on the move again...

PST

(View in the Chicago O'Hare at the computer kiosk)
It is 4:49 am in Bellingham. In Seattle. In Washington. Pacific Standard Time. It is 6:49 am where I am. In between my home and my destination. Caught in the rift between my two time zones. Eastern Standard Time, I am on my way.

Currently, I am ini the Chicago O'Hare airport. I have another (almost) 3 hours until my next flight leaves. Then, onward to my new state: New York.

For someone who has flown so much in her life I can say that this trip has thus far brought new experiences. First, I got driven to the airport in a preeetty fancy Lincoln Towncar (stylish, oh ya.), which I have never had done before. Second, I checked luggage!! Not just any luggage though, THREE bags...two of them weighing an inhumane (to those poor airline workers) 47.5 lbs each, and my 'little' bag weighing in at 34.5 lbs! Not my usual style--trust me. For one of the first times in my life, I walked onto a plane, knew where I was sitting and sat there. No problems, no questions, minimal waiting (who knew?!) and only had my laptop and purse (feels more like a small child-stuffed bag--did I forget to tell Tamia I took "A" with me? Just Kidding!). What freedom! What sheer simplicity. No wonder few people really enjoy flying stand-by. I still don't mind it, as it has allowed me to go so many places (thanks Dad!). But, really? I guess money really can buy comfort and ease. On a plane that is. The last new experience is rather unpleasant. I have always been a sleeper on planes, trains, automobiles--really any kind of transportation and Zonk/I am out. This time around, I couldn't get comfortable from the get-go. This then manifested into whole body aches and pains. My hands, wrists and legs seizing into deep aching cramps that still are hurting me now as I type. I tried to massage them and it did not help at all. My neck hurt, my back hurt. I felt nausous and was having to meditate and lull myself into focusing on other things just so as not to get sick throughout a large part of the flight. I think it could have come from a few things potentially: nerves. I mean, I AM moving all the way across the country and it's sad. and scary; lack of food/water. I was too nervous to really eat or drink before I left; The cold/flu going around Seattle (sorry airplane passengers if you now get this, too! No, I did not start an epidemic...?) or finally, maybe it was the Odwalla Mango Tango that sat out for 4+ hours that I chugged while I was waiting to go through Security at SeaTac?? Not quite sure. Regardless, I am not feeling very well now. Sleep deprivation, I am sure, is not going ot help my symptoms but hopefully the ibuprofen I took will.

T-Minus 2 hours until next flight departure. Oh dear. Airport stays, I am alll too familiar with the monotony. Thank you Internet Access. I really appreciate your existence right now.

Write y'all from the EST.